Canadian Historic Sites: Occasional Papers in Archaeology and History No. 4

Industrial and Agricultural Activities at Lower Fort Garry

by George Ingram

Brewing and Distilling

After almost two decades of hesitation, the Hudson's Bay Company constructed a distillery and malt house at Lower Fort Garry in 1845-46. By 1847, the men of the fort were brewing beer and seem to have continued to do so intermittently until 1870, when the brewery went into production on a grand scale. The distillery, however, seems never to have operated. The Company, conscious of its image, was quite restrictive in its policy toward trading spirits with the Indians, and was reluctant to offend the public in North America or in Great Britain by distilling. The buildings were used only for storage.

The costly importation of spirits for trading and for consumption by the Company's servants led Simpson at an early date to consider establishing a local source of supply. Such was in keeping with the general policy of the Company to obtain as much as possible of its requirements in North America. When Simpson suggested a distillery in 1831, Norway House was designated as the potential site. After a meeting of the Northern Council in 1831, he wrote to the Governor and Committee outlining his idea and requesting permission to move ahead with the project:

It has occurred to me that some advantage would arise to the Colony, and a saving to the Fur Trade, by distilling our own spirits at Norway House instead of importing rum from England, as it would afford a market to the Settlers for Barley to the extent of about 4,000 Bushels annually, the average quantity of rum imported to the Northern Department during the last 10 years being about 4,000 Gallons.¹

7 The industrial buildings south of the fort as sketched by George Finlay in 1847. The rooftops of the distillery-brewery appear near the mouth of the creek. At the extreme right is the cottage. (Glenbow Foundation.)

Simpson's first proposal came to nothing when it was vetoed by the Governor and Committee. Undaunted by their refusal, Simpson seems to have continued to nurture the idea, and five years later proposed a distillery again, this time selecting the Red River Settlement as the site. This was certainly a more logical location as it was the source of raw material for the production of whiskey. The Governor and Committee reversed their previous stand, and somewhat cautiously advanced their approval for Simpson's proposal:

We notice your suggestion and recommendation that a Distillery should be established at the settlement which for the reasons given we think may now be expedient: we therefore no longer withhold our assent, if on further consideration you and the Council of Assiniboia consider such necessary or proper, and if after reconsidering the subject in all its bearings, you still view it in the same light, you may proceed in erecting the necessary buildings and putting the Distillery in operation under the management of the Company's Principal representative at Red River, purchasing the grain at a fair price and selling the spirits (not to exceed proof strength) to the settlers and to the Fur Trade at a price to cover the expenses of distilling, and an excise duty of two shillings and six pence a Gall: the proceeds of this duty to be at the disposal of the Governor and Council of Assiniboia and made applicable in like manner as the duties on imports and exports to defray the expenses, connected with the maintenance of the Police Corps, Jail, Court House, and other public works or institutions, that may be considered necessary for the good government of the settlement.²

Their search for total approval in the settlement indicated that they would withdraw from a disagreeable task at the least sign of opposition.

For the moment, however, they moved ahead quickly with the project, ordering "a still with requisite appurtenances" to be sent out on one of the ships of that season.³ John Codling, a distiller, who seems to have been in the settlement at the time, was expected to "conduct the works."⁴

Meanwhile, Simpson and Alexander Christie, the senior officer of the Company in the settlement, were searching for the best location for a distillery. Only the upper and lower forts were considered. Of these Simpson favoured the latter because of its isolation; at the upper fort there was danger of flooding. The shortage of fresh water at the lower fort was a problem, however.

In regard to the Distillery, I think it should be established at the Lower Fort if water can be obtained by sinking a well or in any other way, and in the course of the winter before proceeding with the buildings, I would recommend your ascertaining that fact by boring down to the level of the river where I think there can be no doubt that water would be found. In the event of no water being found there, I am quite at a loss where to recommend the Distillery being placed, — it must of course be either at the Lower or Upper Fort, the Lower would be preferable as being less exposed to the view and visits of settlers and Indians. On this subject I shall be glad to have your opinion by the earliest opportunity.⁵

After a reconsideration of the water problem, Simpson ten days later changed his mind and recommended that the upper fort be selected. The problem of flooding would be overcome by locating the distillery out of the path of a possible flood.

As there is a difficulty about obtaining waters at the Lower Fort I think it will be necessary to erect the Distillery at the Forks; but on the second Bank of the Assiniboine fronting the new Fort it will be exposed to spring high water and in all probability be swept away by the current which is very strong when the River is high. On the flat to the right of the Fort immediately under the Guns of the Round Corner Bastion it would be out of the strength of the current even should the river be so high as to inundate it, and there by digging a few feet I think you will find water.⁶

At the same time, he told Christie that the "malt roller and other things" apparently ordered by him, would be forwarded.⁷ John Muir, a distiller in Orkney, would be sent out in the fall to operate the planned distillery.⁸

In spite of the extensive preparations, the distillery was not erected by the Company at this time. A few of the settlers, "petty dealers," seem to have cornered the supply of barley in the settlement, thus driving up the price and making distilling impractical. At the same time, others, "Messrs. Logan and Ross," began to oppose the founding of a distillery on other grounds.⁹ If Christie had not yet begun construction, he was ordered to consult the Council of Assiniboia once more to ascertain the views of the majority concerning the establishing of a distillery.¹⁰

8 A view from the river of the distillery and cottage, by George Finlay, in 1847. To the right are the fort and buildings. (Glenbow Foundation.)

The Council seemed unable to come to a firm conclusion and probably reversed its previous decision approving the project. The Governor and Committee, on their part, were unwilling to undertake a project to which they had only reluctantly extended approval unless they had the full support of the Council:

We notice the remonstrance of Messrs. Logan and Ross in reference to Distillation: that is a subject upon which there appears to be much difference of opinion among the principal inhabitants. In giving our assent to the establishment of a distillery at the Settlement two years ago, we did so very reluctantly from an apprehension that it might lead to in temperance and irregularities, on the earnest and repeated application of yourself and the Council, and if the opinion of the majority of the Council be unfavourable to the measure, we do not wish the still to be put into operation; on the contrary, if the majority of the Council and of the different inhabitants be desirous of establishing the distillery we have no desire to oppose their wishes, but in that case you will in council have to put such restrictions on the sale of spiritous liquors as to guard as much as possible against abuse.¹¹

That fall, Simpson ordered Finlayson, who had taken Christie's place while the latter was on leave, to suspend the operation if construction had not already begun.¹² Apparently the latter was the case, and the following spring, Simpson postponed indefinitely any action on the matter while at the same time keeping the question open. If in the future a distillery were built, Monkman's Creek (which may have been the creek to the south of the fort) would be the site of the building:

With regard to the Distillery at Red River, I think it is well to keep that question pending from year to year instead of either commencing the work or abandoning the measure altogether, and after much conversation with Mr. Christie on the subject, he now agrees with us that Monkman's Creek is a better situation for the Distillery, whenever it may be established than the new fort, as there it would be difficult & expensive to get water from the river, and creek or swamp water, it is to be apprehended would be impregnated with salt.¹³

Thus the drawn out soul-searching by the Company's officials and their elaborate preparations went for naught. Even with the equipment for distilling in the colony, the Governor and Committee refrained from proceeding with the experiment for fear of offending important persons in the colony and in England.

Agitation by some settlers continued, however, urging that a distillery be established both to increase the amount of liquor available in the settlement (the Company's shops being the only legal outlet) and to consume some of the colony's produce, of which it was claimed there was a surplus. By this time it was also argued that a legal distillery would arrest the illegal trading and distillation of whiskey in the colony. In 1841, the Council of Assiniboia renewed the Company's privilege to "attempt any part of the process of making native spirits" while denying the right to other entrepreneurs who might be so inclined.¹⁴ But there remained a vocal element in the settlement opposed to distillation by the Company.¹⁵ As long as the opposition continued, the Company officials shied away from the contentious issue, refusing to take up a project which would offend an important segment of the community.

Finally, in 1843, they adopted a solution whereby distillation could be undertaken under the Company's monopoly while at the same time separating the company from the actual operation of the distillery; the right to distill would be farmed out by the Company to a respectable group in the community. An advertisement was published locally, 9 July 1843, asking for tenders "for the production of Native Malt Spirits."¹⁶ A tender was submitted by a group of influential men — Andrew McDermot, James Sinclair, John Bunn, John Inkster, Thomas Thomas — who undertook to open a distillery working under an agreement which among other things stated the Company's right to delegate its monopoly of selling and distilling native spirits.¹⁷ The Company apparently would have the right to oversee the distillers, and while the Governor and Committee again expressed their disapproval of distilling per se, they were appeased by the tight control which the Company would have over the conduct of the venture.¹⁸

In 1843, the new association went so far as to "engage Brown, Angus's predecessor in cookery as a labourer," but by 1844 they were ready to withdrew from the agreement.¹⁹ The Company was not prepared to purchase more than 1,000 gallons of spirits annually and further, would not guarantee to buy the animals fattened on the "mash" byproduct of the distillery.²⁰ "The profit from feeding Pigs, and horned cattle upon the mash and Grains, about the Distillery... [was] considered the chief emolument likely to accrue from the transaction, and without a ready market... for such," McDermot felt "it would be perfect folly to begin Distillation."²¹

If no one else in the settlement came forward to offer to distill under the Hudson's Bay Company conditions, Christie did not think that the Company itself should undertake it. As an alternative, more spirits could be sent out from England.

I am certainly of opinion that should no person hereafter come forward for entering upon distillation the Company ought likewise decline undertaking such an unpleasant and expensive business, [.] two establishments are now about being completed and as neither the upper or lower forts are suitable for the proposed distillery, a third establishment will have to be raised and supported at no trifling expense.²²

To bolster his argument he mentioned a number of the non-fur-trading ventures introduced by the Company in the past which had failed miserably — a reminder which must have perturbed Simpson no end. A bit peevishly perhaps, Simpson asserted again that he felt "the most effectual means of putting it down . . . [illicit distillation] would be to establish a distillery & sell liquor cheap," but he agreed to try Christie's plan of greater importation "for a year or two."²³

The settlers as usual were divided on the issue. However, when it was heard that a distillery would not be established by the Company, the agriculturists were "clamorous" in their reaction.²⁴ Perhaps in the face of this criticism and knowing Simpson's inclination to establish a distillery, Christie, in the spring, was ready to allow that given greater protection, a Company distillery might not be a bad thing. By now the checking of illicit manufacture of spirits and smuggling were major considerations:

I confess being ever exceedingly averse, to the erection of a public Distillery in the settlement but am now apprehensive, that no other method is likely to check the smuggler, and therefore do not hesitate to recommend the establishment of a Distillery by the Company, provided means can be devised to effect adequate protection, and entirely prevent the clandestine manufacture of ardent spirits.²⁵

At its meeting of June, 1845, the Council of Assiniboia again requested that the Company distill in the settlement. It also formally adopted the minimum protection which Christie felt was necessary before the Company should commence such an operation.²⁶

After nearly a decade of delay, work went ahead quickly on the Company's project — a speed induced by the imminent arrival of the Sixth Regiment, a body of men certain to be inclined to sample the distillery's product. Only one month after the Council's action in the matter, Christie wrote to Simpson announcing the beginning of construction at the lower fort:

We have commenced preparations for the erection of the intended Distillery, at the creek immediately above the lower fort, [.] the bank has been excavated to a considerable depth, but nevertheless the water must be raised from the River to somewhat more than 24 feet in height, which we propose to accomplish with a common pump — wrought by oxen, and to employ the same power for grinding the malt — the necessary extent of mason work, for completing the foundations, furnaces and chimneys will I regret, after this date entirely stop the progress of the Fort wall and Bastions for a season — but with every possible means at our command, the Distillery works cannot be in operation next Winter, [.] in [the] course of the season, Barley will be received, in order to begin malting early next Spring.²⁷

Work continued into the fall and winter. In December, Christie made a progress report:

We are proceeding with the preparatory erections for the Distillery at the lower fort, and the houses will be ready for receiving Barley before the first March next, but the entire works cannot be completed before next Autumn, — which will not inconvenience as a sufficiency of Rum was imported to York Factory last autumn for the Service of Outfit 1846.²⁸

Construction must have been completed by the following July as Simpson could speak of a "distillery and malting house lately erected near the Lower Fort."²⁹

In the above letter, Simpson was planning for the accommodation of the detachment of the Sixth Regiment about to arrive in the Red River Settlement. According to Simpson, the troops at the lower fort would be given quarters inside the fort while the business of the Company would be conducted in the new building(s). This may have been the fate of the distillery but the malting house seems to have been put to proper use as early as that fall. In a memo to Christie concerning the arrangements to be made for the troops, Simpson ordered that "2000 Bushels Barley . . . be converted into Beer for the use of the troops, not stronger than 8 gns. Beer to the Bushel."³⁰

9 In this view of the fort in 1857 by John Fleming, two officers of the Canadian Rifles talk to two Indians in the foreground. At the extreme right is an early thatched log stable and in the distance are the cottage, warehouse, and distillery-brewery buildings. (John Ross Robertson Collection, Metropolitan Toronto Central Library.)

Some beer was brewed but the supplies proved to be inadequate for the hearty thirst of the men of the Sixth:

We have been going on for some time with supplies of Beer in the Canteens, in the proportion of about one pint per man daily, but all we can do is insufficient to meet the demand for drinkables both for officers and men, and have therefore increased the additional indent in Wines and Spirits, so as to be more able to meet the applications which are from time to time made on the Company's Stores.³¹

Two months later, Christie attributed the shortage of beer to the dearth of barley in the colony: "And with more abundant crops last autumn, we would have been enabled to afford much greater satisfaction by brewing a sufficiency of Beer."³² Many of the settlers were producing beer themselves to obtain a more lucrative return from their scanty grain supplies. Barley converted into beer would bring a much higher price than the grain itself.³³

When the danger of a scarcity of grain loomed up again in 1847, Simpson ruled out distillation, but allowed some brewing if the troops demanded beer.

If the grain Crops should unfortunately fail this season, I think the Consumption of Barley in brewing or distillation should be exceedingly limited; but if it be absolutely necessary to supply the troops with beer, you may advance the price of barley to 3/ or 4/ charging a corresponding increase in the price of beer.³⁴

Simpson's recommendations seem to have been followed. In 1848, for instance, Ballenden had at first expected to be able to begin distilling but a shortage of barley forced him to alter his plans.

I at one time expected to have got this winter a sufficient quantity of barley to have enabled us to commence distilling whiskey but now I fear I shall not, — I would not recommend commencing to distill with a less stock than 6,000 bushels, and I fear this season we shall not get above 1000.³⁵

Finally, in 1849, the crops were "abundant" and Ballenden, almost eagerly, it seems, began preparations to distill whiskey. His letter to the Secretary of the Hudson's Bay Company was filled with enthusiasm:

The Barley is exceedingly abundant, and as it has been thought proper, both by The Governor and Committee and the Council of Assiniboia, that distillation should be commenced here, I shall purchase a large quantity, with the view, if it is still deemed advisable, of commencing operations [this] ensuing season. I would commence early next Spring but we have no person in the settlement capable of conducting the work. Allow me therefore, to recommend that a suitable person, capable of acting as Distiller, be engaged and sent out by the Ship next year. Should Their Honors agree to this, I would further suggest the propriety, of their consulting Chief Factor Christie on the subject, and authorizing him to engage the Distiller, as he knows, better than any other can, the description of person most required in this Settlement. I would also authorize him to purchase a new Still and Pumps, which might likewise be sent out next season.³⁶

The question of the distillery had been in the offing for such a long period of time that the equipment sent out in 1837 had become unserviceable and a new still and pumps were required.

The distillery was not destined to begin production at this time however; during the interval of time offered by the shortage of crops, the Governor and Committee reconsidered their previous approval and now decided against the manufacture of spirits in the settlement.

Distilling was not the responsibility of the fur-trade branch of the Company's operations and furthermore to undertake the "distillation of spirits" would be "particularly inexpedient" at the time.³⁷ Thus, in the spring of 1850, the Company was prepared to abandon the project for the present, if not permanently, in spite of the fact that the building and equipment for production were already in the settlement.

10 The nascent industrial area was photographed by H.L. Hime in 1858. From left to right are the distillery-brewery, cottage, and warehouse. (Public Archives of Canada.)

Beer was made regularly at the lower fort after 1846. Certainly there are frequent references in the 1850s to beer being sold in quantities in the shop,³⁸ and the beer seems to have been brewed at the lower fort rather than purchased from some outside source. In November, 1854, for example, John Folster was paid for 10 days and 4 nights brewing, and later in April, 1855, was paid for 13 days and 4 nights.³⁹ The Company also purchased quantities of hops from the settlers — in September, 1860, alone, this amounted to 700 pounds — and buying continued throughout the fall.⁴⁰ Entries in the accounts in 1861 indicate that brewing was taking place.

14 October, 1861
2-1/2 yds. white cheese cloth to Brewery
1/2 pint Dem. Rum for brewers

18 October, 1861
50 lbs. Hops for brewing

1 November, 1861
1-1/2 pints of rum to Brewers⁴¹

In 1863 and 1864, William Mactavish at Upper Fort Garry sent down to the lower fort for his supply of beer.⁴²

Although the Company produced beer quite regularly in the 1850s and early 1860s, it may also have purchased some from an outside source. In 1866, for instance, Whiskey Thomas (who seems to have been quite a notorious character located on the road between the upper and lower fort) was accorded the following references in the accounts:

for 20 gns. beer 30/
for making 92 gns. beer 54/
for 60 bushels malt 12/43

It is not clear whether Thomas was using his own facilities or those of the Company.

The purchase of beer from an outside source (if indeed this happened) may indicate a decline or stoppage in the Company's activity toward the end of the 1860s. In the first two years of the journal, 1868-69, there is no reference to brewing being carried on at the lower fort; and in 1870-71 considerable activity at the malt house suggests that the brewing establishment was being put back into shape after a considerable period of disuse, or that it was being enlarged.⁴⁴

The selected references from the journal illustrate the preparations made for brewing in that year.

Brewing was carried on almost the year round and on quite a large scale.⁴⁶ In 1873, men were installing a new boiler and building a "chimney for the brewer's boilers."⁴⁷ The improvements suggest that it was planned to brew for a considerably longer period.

Although brewing continued throughout the 1850s and 1860s, the opening of the distillery was repeatedly postponed. Almost a decade after the Governor and Committee's decision not to distill in 1850, the question was raised once again by one of the Company's officials, F.G. Johnson, the recorder, in 1857. Johnson pointed to the importation of raw liquor from the United States and the intemperance which it encouraged as reasons for suggesting a reconsideration of the Company's attitude. Total prohibition was impractical and he was inclined to favour the establishing of a distillery.

The considerations which seem to recommend the establishment of a distillery are obvious. The money which is expended in the purchase of ardent spirits is carried out of the Colony: The article imported is vile, deleterious, and retailed at a very high price, and its clandestine sale besides fostering habits of deceit and defiance, is from its very nature beyond the reach of due and proper regulation. Whereas distillation on the spot, besides being a source of direct profit to the distiller, to the revenue, and to the farmer, would furnish a pure, cheap, and comparatively innocuous article, and could be subjected to such regulations as have proved in all countries indispensable concomitants of the traffic in intoxicating drinks.⁴⁸

He also reminded the Company officials that "the apparatus necessary for distilling is already on the spot and in the possession of the Company."⁴⁹ He therefore recommended that the Company undertake distillation itself rather than resort to leasing the buildings and equipment to private individuals. Simpson himself wrote to Smith, the Company Secretary, reminding him that "this question has been brought forward from time to time during the last 25 years, but the decision has changed them against a distillery, even after the Company had erected the necessary building & provided the apparatus for conducting it on a large scale."⁵⁰

A decision on the matter was postponed until the following summer when Simpson would be in the Red River Settlement. Then it was decided not to put the distillery into operation, the main reason for not doing so being again the shortage of grain.

It was decided, while I was at the settlement, not to put it in operation at present, for a variety of reasons, the principal of which was the scarcity of grain. The distillery, if put in operation would have the effect of curtailing the already limited supply of food for the purpose of furnishing in greater abundance an article, the use of which it has always been our policy to discourage.⁵¹

The building was used for little other than a storehouse throughout most of its history. In 1869, for instance, two men were heading up flour barrels "from the Distillery" and in 1870 "all the men were hauling up wheat from the old distillery."⁵² In December it underwent some repair and was mudded, but this was probably only intended to keep the building weathertight.⁵³

In fact, the distillery does not seem to have been put into operation at all, and by the end of the 1870s, the brewery had also ceased production. There were several breweries located in the new province and they would provide an alternative and probably less expensive source of supply for the Company. The farm had by then been closed down and the lower fort had lost a number of its non-fur-trade functions. In April, 1880, the men were employed in "demolishing the brewery."